Well-known Raf Simons led CK for the first time

July 29, 2023

More and more luxury brands are caught in the plagiarism, and the star designer Raf Simons, who has always had a good reputation in the fashion industry, has not been spared this time.

More and more luxury brands are caught in the plagiarism, and the star designer Raf Simons, who has always had a good reputation in the fashion industry, has not been spared this time.

According to WWD's latest news, the website Bonnie Cashin Archives owner Stephanie Lake posted a picture in his instagram account @cashincopy, accusing CALVIN KLEIN of the latest release of an orange cloak allegedly copying Bonnie Cashin's 1978 design. Although the name Bonnie Cashin is somewhat unfamiliar to the public, he was Coach's first designer and is considered a pioneer in American fashion.

The picture shows Bonnie Cashin 1978 design (left) and CALVIN KLEIN 2018 spring and summer series (right)

CALVIN KLEIN's suspected plagiarism comes from Raf Simons' latest CALVIN KLEIN205W39NYC series. On July 24 this year, Raf Simons was responsible for the release of a new advertisement for the first ready-to-wear collection, and the brand announced that the ready-to-wear collection was renamed CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, the headquarters of the brand's New York headquarters.

As of now, CALVIN KLEIN has not responded to this.

Fashion creative intellectual property has often been difficult to protect because of the ambiguity of the boundaries of rights. Recently, the suspected plagiarism of luxury brands has appeared frequently, which is attracting great attention from the industry. A puff sleeve coat on the Gucci 2018 early spring vacation show was accused of copying Dapper Dan's 1989 design.

The brand responded that the work was indeed a tribute to Dapper Dan, which led to a heated discussion in the fashion industry about the boundaries of “cultural appropriation”. Many people believe that Gucci should at least fight for approval instead of playing first, and Gucci's new collection of clothes completely replicates Dapper Dan's design.

However, some analysts believe that Dapper Dan is the first to invade the intellectual property of luxury brands. As early as the 1990s, the hip-hop culture in Harlem, New York was prevailing, and African Americans were increasingly popular with luxury brands, which gave birth to Dapper Dan. Designer of logo fabrics. However, this time has been settled recently. The two sides have reached a cooperation agreement. The joint capsule series is expected to be released next spring and will be released in Gucci's global stores. It is worth noting that Gucci also invited Dapper Dan to shoot Gucci's Fall/Winter 2017 advertising blockbuster.

This year's plagiarism is also the hot Balenciaga. Music producer Swiss Beatz accused Balenciaga of a 2018 spring/summer menswear shirt that almost completely replicated a Ruff Ryders 2000 design without asking for permission. Swiss Beatz's uncles Darrin Dean and Joaquin Dean founded Ruff Ryders Entertainment in 1998. According to The Fashion Law, Ruff Ryders is likely to take legal action because it has a series of trademark registrations, including clothing items and the words “Ryder or Die” and “R” on the prints. Balenciaga has no permission without permission. Use of rights. Balenciaga did not respond to this matter.

The CALVIN KLEIN plagiarism is similar to the Gucci event, and the objects are important figures that fade out of fashion history. In fact, in the fashion design process, watching historical archives and finding design inspiration is often the only way to design. Raf Simons has always been famous for his tribute as a design element, and his youth culture insists on transplanting symbols and elements as a way of expression. He once put the cover of the Peter Saville album designed by the master of graphic design and the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe directly on the clothes.

But the paradox of the matter is, what is plagiarism and misappropriation? The cooperation with Peter Saville and Robert Mapplethorpe can be regarded as a talent crossover. But this time instead of putting the print on the clothes, the style is strikingly similar. Some analysts speculated that CALVIN KLEIN did not seek approval from the family of the late designer Bonnie Cashin.

For Raf Simons, who is still exploring the transformation path at CALVIN KLEIN, the plagiarism has undoubtedly increased his pressure again.

Editor in charge: Wang Zhen

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